Signs of an electrical fault
- Lights dimming or flickering when the A/C or microwave cycles on
- Outlets dead on one side of the rig while the rest work fine
- Batteries that will not hold charge overnight or drain while plugged in
- A breaker or fuse that trips repeatedly on the same circuit
- A burning smell, warm outlet, or discolored plug at the shore power inlet
- Nothing at all on 12V — no lights, no pump, no slides
What the service covers
12V system troubleshooting
House battery bank, fuse panel, grounds, and branch circuits traced properly. Most no-power calls come down to a corroded ground or a failed converter rather than the batteries everyone suspects first.
120V shore power and distribution
Shore inlet, cord, transfer switch, breaker panel, GFCI circuits, and outlets — including the burnt or backed-out connections that show up as intermittent power on one side of the coach.
Converters and inverters
Diagnosis and replacement of failed converters, plus inverter sizing and installation when you want to run real loads off the battery bank instead of a generator.
Batteries and charging
Load testing, replacement, and lithium conversions — including the converter or charger changes a lithium bank actually needs, which is the step most DIY conversions skip.
Generator electrical
Transfer switch faults, generator output problems, and the wiring between the two, which is a far more common failure point than the generator itself.
Rewiring and additions
New circuits, outlets, USB and 12V accessory points, replacing brittle or rodent-damaged runs, and cleaning up wiring left behind by a previous owner.
Low voltage is the quiet killer
A long or undersized extension cord, a tired pedestal at an older RV park, or a heavily loaded campground circuit on a hot afternoon can pull incoming voltage well below where an air conditioner or a converter is happy. Nothing looks obviously wrong — but the A/C struggles, the converter runs hot, and motors draw more current to compensate.
Sustained low voltage is what actually destroys compressors and converters in Texas summers. Diagnosing an appliance failure without checking supply voltage at the panel means replacing a part that is going to fail again for the same reason.
Two systems, one panel, no documentation
The 12-volt side runs your lights, pump, slides, and control boards. The 120-volt side runs outlets, air conditioning, and the converter that feeds the 12-volt side. When something dies, the symptom rarely points at the system that actually failed — a dead furnace or refrigerator control board is a 12V problem that presents as an appliance problem.
Twelve years of RV work means most of these faults are familiar patterns rather than mysteries. Troubleshooting starts at the panel with a meter, not with a parts order.
How the visit works
Call or send a message describing the problem and where the RV is parked. You hear back instantly, and most jobs are booked within 24 hours. James arrives with a fully stocked mobile shop, diagnoses the problem in front of you, and gives you upfront pricing before any work begins — in your driveway, at your storage lot, or at your campsite anywhere within 50 miles of Kyle.
RV Electrical Repair — common questions
Where we handle rv electrical repair
On-site service anywhere within 50 miles of Kyle, TX.
Need rv electrical repair? Just call.
Describe the issue and James will help diagnose the problem and provide upfront pricing before any work begins.